from the land
Close to Home
The patchwork hills of the South Downs sing in all seasons, but none more than late summer, when haybales wrapped up into neat little bundles scatter the fields. They meet the sinking sun on long afternoons, drawing your eye up and over the rolling hills of Sussex – unspoilt countryside that reminds me of my childhood home.
I grew up surrounded by farmland, the smell of muck spreading wafting through the house. I spent summers on my uncle’s working farm, milking, herding, collecting eggs, and inevitably watching livestock being loaded onto the lorry, which leaves you with a deep appreciation for where your food comes from.
These days, I find myself drawn to places that share the same appreciation. Along a quiet, winding Sussex lane, sits THE PIG-in the South Downs. Strolling through their sprawling walled kitchen gardens lined with luxury shepherd's huts, I’m reminded of my aunt’s little farm shop selling eggs, milk and other products. They delivered milk on their milk float and had neighbours who would return to the shop week after week.
THE PIG’s 25-mile menu encourages a similar connection to community, seasonality and slow living, all of which can be incredibly beneficial for wellbeing. Research shows that a deep sense of belonging can actually decrease the production of the stress hormone cortisol, and release health-boosting ones, like oxytocin and dopamine.
It takes gardeners, farmers, chefs and butchers, as well as staff and guests to make a place like this. A community with roots that grow deeper year on year.
As I sit in the glass restaurant, sipping a Mother Root cocktail, waiting for my Sunday lunch to arrive, I look out over the landscape that’s currently suspended between seasons. Winter will be here soon enough, and I’ll return and drink something warm and spicy, under strings of fairy lights.
Provenance is a story guests come back for.